You’ve researched the epic location. Ventured out on a long hike. Lugged in heavy pro gear.

And then… The gentle swell created no crashing waves. Gale-force winds blurred the foreground ferns. Or the sunset was way too far to the south.

Over the past decade—through some trial and plenty of error—I’ve built an approach to plan, predict and prepare for weather conditions before I head out on location. 

Here’s what I’ve gleaned—and how you can take memorable photos in epic and mediocre conditions.

Clouds: From spectacular sunrises to soft forest light

I’m starting with clouds. Why? Because clouds control light—even more than the sun—which is essential to landscape photography. 

That’s my formal answer. A just as valid reason? Because clouds control sunrise and sunset colours—and spectacular skies look great on Instagram.

Predicting spectacular sky shows is straightforward. (Even if it doesn’t always materialise.) There are two elements:

1. Clouds overhead and out towards the horizon

2. A gap in the clouds for the rising/setting sun to shine through

That’s it.

High wispy clouds will produce more pink, whimsical skies. While low storm clouds will create moody textures and vibrant colours.

But when you’ve got those two elements, you’re in for a treat.

To track where the clouds are—and are not—use a free service like Windy.com to predict cloud systems moving across your area. You can even track just high clouds—which are ideal for softer light in forests and more minimal abstract scenes.

And if there are no clouds on the way? Well, that’s perfect for astrophotography under the night sky. (Just check the moon phase to make sure its brightness doesn’t overpower the dim starlight. Aim for 0% to 40% moon fullness.)

Wind: Gentle breezes and wild gales

Of all weather conditions, I find wind the most frustrating.

It’s ruined many dim forest scenes where I’ve needed a slow shutter speed—which doesn’t align with delicate fern fronds swaying in the slightest breeze. And even by the coast or waterfalls, strong gales can be biting and spray water droplets onto the camera lens.

But wild winds can be helpful too.

They will shape and form sharp sand dunes.

They can whip up striking cloud formations.

They might send crashing waves trailing back dozens of metres—creating swirling textures and shapes to capture.

The essence of wind—its unpredictability—is precisely what makes it both infuriating and utterly grand at the same time. 

You can’t tame wild winds. But you can adapt to them. You can capture a fleeting gust or shape to create something unreplicable and truly unique.

Seasons: Colour, texture and angles

In 2014, when my spark for landscape photography began to ignite, I thought the seasons had little effect in Australia—compared to the more noticeable shifts in Europe and North America.

Yet over the past decade, I’ve observed and tracked subtle seasonal shifts here at home.

Each summer, eucalypt bark unfurls and peels off in vibrant strips and striking patterns. In NSW’s Royal National Park, groves of Angophora costata (also known as Sydney Red Gum) reveal raw orange bark contrasted against an old grey-blue layer.

Tree ferns send out fresh fronds on a yearly basis like clockwork. When spring hits, new fronds emerge. And through summer, the old growth browns and becomes less photogenic until the new growth fully takes over around March.

Here are a few other ways how the seasons can affect your landscape photography:

• Shifting sun angle: With each passing day, the position of the rising (and setting) sun shifts ever so slightly northwards or southwards. Use tools like SunCalc or The Photographer's Ephemeris to predict and align the sun—down seascape channels or to strike mountain peaks. 

• Variable water flow: When waterfalls and streams are fed by mountains, then warmer spring months will melt the winter snowpack to feed the stronger water flow.

• Vibrant growth and flowers: In Australia, wildflowers—like wattle and waratahs—tend to bloom from mid-spring through summer. And nor can we forget Tasmania’s annual turning of the fagus each autumn in mid-April.

• Astrophotography: Like the sun, the Milky Way also shifts position in the night sky. You’ll get your best view of the galactic core rising—at a reasonable hour after sunset—between June and September.

Rain: Dreamy waterfalls and verdant flora

When I think of rain, I think of waterfalls and lush forest scenes. 

Fresh falls can turn trickles into powerful cascades. While steady winter rains can herald in a spring wildflower bloom and verdant summer foliage.

But heavy downpours can be too intense. 

Inside a steep gully or canyon, spraying water may fog up your lens. While the sheer volume of water might make the river too turbulent—distracting from the tranquil scene you were trying to convey.

I’ve found that river-fed waterfalls (as opposed to snowmelt-fed) are at their most photogenic two to three days after a big rainfall.

Rain has a much wider effect on the landscape too.

Prolonged wet weather can sweep up soil sediments and send them out to sea. As a result, the ocean might become milky brown and produce seafoam. That bubble bath effect can hinder seascape scenes or become a subject in and of itself—depending on how you work with it. 

Conversely, a sudden deluge and then a prolonged drought can create textured mud cracks in desert landscapes. 

And perhaps one of the most sought-after—yet illusive—weather conditions is fog. You’ll typically want damp ground, cool overnight temperatures and a gentle wind. 

Fog may be fleeting, but when it appears, it will transform your scene and create a dreamy atmosphere to help isolate your subject.

Ocean: Shifting tides and monster swells

Coastal scenes are highly dynamic environments, with waves, tides and winds in constant flux.

That variability is precisely what makes seascape photography such a rewarding pursuit. When the conditions align, you’ll be treated to scenes of unparalleled awe and wonder. 

Here’s what to track when it comes to coastal scenes:

• Tide: Visiting a new location? Scope out the area at high and low tide to observe the interplay of tide and shoreline. High tides might snake between more elevated boulders and rock channels—and help to obscure barnacles around the waterline. While low tides could result in more energetic waves as they break over the seafloor below. 

• Swell: Big swell. Big waves. Banger shots. Just keep it safe. Huge swells might be impressive—but they can be destructive too. Take time to see where the waves are breaking before you rush up and get as close as possible.

• Wind: Keep an eye on the local wind speed and direction. Strong winds could dull and flatten waves so they hardly break. Or if they’re howling through, they could send sea spray trailing back like a veil after every crashing wave.

Final thoughts: Low expectations for high results

We often latch onto the weather conditions we want—hoping for surging waterfalls or brilliant skies.

Yet what we want and what actually unfolds on location don’t always align.

The key I’ve found, after many years of both awe and disappointment, is to enter landscapes without firm expectations.

I encourage you to track cloud fronts and take note of the recent rainfall. But don’t let external factors entirely out of your hands dull your photographic vision or potential.

Do your research and arrive on location armed with weather information. But when you set out, take in the scene as it is—not how you want it to be.

Capturing epic conditions can be stunning. But adapting to mediocre conditions can be far more rewarding—and result in much more memorable imagery.

Want to sharpen your skills and take stunning landscape shots? Check out my 8 essential guides and lessons, packed with insightful theory and practical tips.