It’s good to be back.
On the morning of 23 November 2020, after months of strict lockdown in Melbourne, I drove up the Hume to be with my family again on the South Coast of NSW. We’d kept in touch over texts and video calls, but there’s nothing like sitting down face to face again, just shooting the breeze together.
To everyone who’s still doing tough in isolation, I hope you’ll be able to reconnect soon. It’s been a rough year, but we’re nearly through it.
In addition to the litres of coffee and the loaves of banana bread consumed, I was able to go on a few photography adventures. We explored familiar locations around Kiama and Minnamurra, while venturing further south near Bermagui and Narooma. To wake before dawn to see the sunrise over the Pacific is an experience few of us will take for granted again.
Here’s a collection of what we saw.
Minnamurra Headland
North of Kiama is the idyllic township of Minnamurra, home to the understated Minnamurra Headland. On the headland, you have two main angles to consider—wide rugged cliffs (that look more at home on an Icelandic travel brochure) or getting close to the rocks as waves cut through the scene (or both if you can make the early morning dash up the headland).
When the swell is more treacherous, perch yourself atop the headland and shoot down across the cliffs—just be mindful of the sheer drop down below. While you’re up there, consider varying your shutter speed and framing, or try a telephoto lens to isolate waves crashing against the coastline.
I spent two mornings out by Minnamurra Headland. The first presented a small gap on the horizon, allowing the light to leak through. The gap remained and the rising sun struck the jagged boulders, waves crashing around.
The second morning was thick with cloud, but that didn’t stop me from catching up with Andrew McIntosh for a telephoto abstract shoot looking down at the coast. The overcast skies provided even lighting for the scenes below, with long exposures capturing the motion in the water.
Cathedral Rocks, Kiama Downs
Just north of the iconic Bombo Quarry (more on an epic sunrise there shortly) are the stunning Cathedral Rocks—two seastacks rising out of the ocean.
Best accessed from the southern end of Jones Beach, I’d recommend visiting during daytime to first scope out the location. There’s a number of rock channels which can be easily crossed at low tide but quickly fill in high tide.
There’s also an iconic seacave nestled into the cliffs that offers a framed view of Cathedral Rocks. The channel out of the cave runs south-east for great sunrise views from November through to January. So that’s where I perched myself, and despite the low clouds, the morning light shined through for a few frames as the waves rushed over me.
Camel Rock, Bermagui
My father (Craig Green Photography) and I packed the campervan and ventured down to the Far South Coast, pitching the camper at Mystery Bay, south of Narooma.
The Sapphire Coast of NSW is blessed with long stretches of picturesque beaches, interrupted by jagged sea stacks. Three of the most striking are Horse Head Rock, Camel Rock and Glasshouse Rocks. Each unique in their formation and surrounds, these icons of the area offer many opportunities for keen landscape photographers.
First up was Camel Rock, which looks somewhat like its namesake viewed from the south, yet offers more imposing compositions when viewed from the west looking south-east back towards Bermagui. When photographing Camel Rock, observe the swell and look for opportunities where the incoming waves cascade over the foreground rocks.
Horse Head Rock, Bermagui
With the early sunrises of summer we woke at 4am to venture out to Horse Head Rock. As one of Australia’s most impressive seascape formations, Horse Head Rock is a sight to behold in person. Its isolated location can make access somewhat challenging, yet when approached with planning and care, is a rewarding scene for all landscape photographers.
It can be accessed from the Camel Rock car park at the northern end of Horseshoe Bay. Walking down and north from the car park, weave through the boulders littered around Camel Rock. The coastline is uneven, with rocks often moving underfoot, so wear suitable footwear and proceed with caution. If you arrive pre-dawn or intend on shooting astrophotography, a quality headlamp will help light your way over the boulders.
We had previously visited on low tide, which meant easy access, but often the waves were too far out to capture decent long exposures. This time we visited on mid tide, which resulted in strong wave action swirling around the rocks, but saw us venture back in knee-deep water around the narrow coastline.
Glasshouse Rocks, Narooma
Although the light didn’t arrive for either of our sunset or sunrise shoots down by Glasshouse Rocks, I found a strong composition, with sharp spires filling the frame. I’ll be back.
Lighting and compositions vary throughout the year with the shifting angles of the rising sun. Likewise, the time of year affects the range of astrophotography options. Apps like Photopills allow you to predict the position of the Milky Way (and moon) through the year. Yet while Milky Way season generally runs from April to October, you can still capture the tail of the Milky Way, along with the Magellanic Clouds, as early as February.
Lastly, as with Horse Head and Camel Rocks, be sure to review the local tides and swell against your intended shooting schedule. While these three areas can still be accessed a few hours after low tide, you don’t want to be caught on the rising high tide returning from a shoot.
Shellharbour North Beach
Returning back up the South Coast I spent a few days in my hometown of Shellharbour Village. Fortunate to have the beach a stone’s throw from home, this is where I first developed my passion for seascape photography. In 2013 I’d venture down by the waves with my iPhone in hand, hoping the clouds would alight in colour. The gear may have changed, but that thrill of exploration waiting for the light sure hasn’t.
After a summer storm rolled in during dinner, Mum and I went down to the north end of the beach, chasing the cloud formations rolling overhead on sunset.
Bombo Quarry, Kiama
The striking Bombo Quarry is situated to the north of Kiama, and can be accessed via train from Sydney to Bombo Station or via the carpark at the north end of Bombo Beach. The old quarry is now long-abandoned, with easy walking access down into the main amphitheatre.
The southern channel offers great sunrise views from March through to October, while the narrow channel at the north end is best aligned for sunrise from November to February. That’s where we headed first—and what a sunrise we witnessed.
With the sky down at Berry full of cloud, Dad and I woke early to venture north and see what we could find. Cresting the hill outside Gerringong we saw a decent gap in the clouds on the horizon. This could be on. After stopping in Kiama to consult the pre-dawn clouds and the wind pushing the gap north, we drove with the clouds to the old faithful, Bombo Quarry.
With the summer sun well-aligned down the north channel, we set up close to the crashing waves and simply waited. The sky exploded with the rising sun lighting the clouds above in the most glorious glowing sunkissed colours I’ve seen this year.
Then after securing that shot, I ran back down the quarry to score a second (and third) composition looking down the south channel. The colour remained for 30 minutes after the initial burst, allowing me to capture many frames of the waves snaking back down through the slick boulders. Bombo, you beauty.
Gerringong Boat Harbour
And now for something completely different. After capturing epic skies all along the South Coast, I challenged Dad and I to look for daytime intimate seascapes down by the Gerringong Boat Harbour.
Without colourful skies or snaking long exposures, we were forced to stop and consider the smaller scenes around us. The challenge brought out our creativity, focussing on textures and patterns in the surrounding rockpools.
What a fruitful trip back home. It was great to reconnect with the family, and even capture a few frames for the portfolio. It’s good to be back.